Holly's Hollands Rabbitry
Raising Holland Lops exclusively with the mindset of quality over quantity.
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Rabbit GI ~ When Things go Wrong

7/2/2015

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A rabbit's gastro-intestinal tract (or, GI), is very complex. A healthy GI tract is constantly moving, processing food and hay, producing cecotrophs, and then processing the cecotrophs to produce regular poop. 

This is why rabbits need hay constantly available to them. Their gut needs to be moving all the time, to maintain a healthy GI tract. When rabbits don't have access to hay or pellets all the time, their GI can slow, and a problem can arise called GI Stasis. 

GI Stasis can occur whenever the intestines come to a complete standstill. This can be caused by not enough roughage in the diet, a hairball, or something else clogging the intestines. Sometimes it's not enough exercise, stress, dehydration, or pain from another underlying illness. or even sometimes it's genetic. I've heard the Dwarf Hotot rabbit is very susceptible to GI Stasis for some reason. 

GI Stasis is a serious problem. It's not very common, but it is very dangerous. When the intestines come to a complete stop for over 24 hours with no care, the rabbit can die. 

"An intestinal slowdown can cause ingested hair and food to lodge anywhere along the GI tract, creating a potential blockage. Also, because the cecum is not emptying quickly enough, harmful bacteria such as Clostridium species (related to the ones that cause botulism and tetanus) can proliferate, their numbers overwhelming those of the normal, beneficial bacteria and fungi in the cecum. Once this overgrowth occurs, gas emitted by the bacteria can cause extreme pain. Some Clostridium species also produce potentially deadly toxins. It is the liver's job to detoxify these poisons, at a high cost to that all-important organ. Damage to the liver can be a serious--even life-threatening--side effect of GI stasis." ~http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/ileus.html

Symptoms of GI Stasis include little or no poop pellets, poop covered in mucus, loss of appetite, lethargy, and pain (being hunched in a ball, loudly grinding teeth). 

GI Stasis can be cured. Different things work for different rabbits, but I suggest bringing your rabbit to a vet immediately after detecting any sign that your rabbit may have GI Stasis. 

Visit the site I referenced above, for lots more info on GI Stasis.
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The Importance of Veggies & Herbs

6/30/2015

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Veggies, fruits and herbs are very important in your rabbit's diet. It doesn't need to be fed daily, especially with Holland Lops, but fresh herbs and veggies are good at least a couple times a week. 

Most veggies and herbs are high in fiber and calcium, which are good for all aspects of the rabbit. It helps keep the fur moving through the intestines during a molt, prevents constipation, and some plants can cure diarrhea. 

In the wild, rabbits are eating whatever they can find. They typically eat wild plants. Very few rabbits have access to a garden where they can steal carrots or kale or celery. Wild rabbits like comfrey, sage, and dandelions, which have nutritional benefits to their health. Some herbs, veggies, and plants, even some fruits, can combat illnesses. Most of these can be grown pretty easily in a backyard garden. Pineapple is a natural dewormer, parsley enriches the blood and helps with urinary problems, and strawberry is antiseptic and cooling, can prevent miscarriage, and is rich in iron. 
See THIS page for a complete list on herbs, fruits and veggies and their benefits. 

This year I'm feeding my rabbits a lot ore fresh herbs and veggies, because I started a small garden. They are primarily getting cilantro, parsley, and basil, sometimes carrots (they prefer the tops). Next year I hope to expand my garden so I can grow collard greens, kale, maybe even raspberries and strawberries, and a lot more.

Before feeding any fruits, veggies, plants or herbs from the wild or from a garden, make sure you read up on if they are suitable for rabbits or not. Everyone assumes lettuces and carrots are rabbits' favorites - but lettuce shouldn't be fed, and carrots are high in sugar, and there are plenty of other veggies and herbs out there rabbits enjoy much more. 

I hope you enjoy this article. See you in my next blog!
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The Benefits of Black Oil Sunflower Seeds

6/8/2015

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I found some great articles while researching on this subject. I'm going to quote them here. 
From http://catalayarabbitry.weebly.com/blog/black-oil-sunflower-seedsboss: 
The use of Black Oil Sunflower Seeds (BOSS) is more commonly used by rabbit breeders of show rabbits but did you know that there are more benefits then just a nice coat? It is widely known that BOSS helps give your rabbits a nice shiny coat for showing but in the colder months BOSS can also help keep your rabbits warm. BOSS is a high calorie and high fat feed therefore we only feed in the winter months. The added weight helps to keep your rabbit warm in the winter months.

BOSS helps your rabbits coat by putting oil back into it making it smooth and shiny. Show breeders therefore will feed BOSS to their show quality rabbits.

BOSS is also high in Vitamin E, protein and fiber. Just a few seeds per rabbit is all it takes. You want to be careful not to over feed as it will result in a fat lazy rabbit. If you have a rabbit that seems to be stuck in a molt BOSS will help to blow their coat.  Just 4-6 seeds per rabbit is all we feed our californians. During summer months we only give BOSS to our show rabbits a week or so before the show this would ensure a nice shiny coat and that the rabbit would not be in a molt.

BOSS is easy enough to grow yourself during the summer cutting back on the cost of having to buy the feed. Last summer we had some seeds sprout so we planted them and harvested the seeds for our rabbits to eat this winter. 
From http://riseandshinerabbitry.com/2012/11/25/feeding-rabbits-black-oil-sunflower-seeds/: 
Rabbits love black oil sunflower seeds (BOSS). They are a great winter tonic! I only feed BOSS to my rabbits in the cooler months, as it is a high calorie, high fat, “hot” feed. So it keeps them warm and shiny, great for a dry winter coat. This helps by putting the oil back into their coats.

I am talking about the black oil sunflower seeds, not the striped seeds. The striped seeds have thicker, tougher hulls. Black oil seeds have thinner shells and are more nutritious. Black oil sunflower seeds contain high levels of protein are rich in vitamin E, linoleic acid and provide a good source of fiber. Rabbits benefit from this snack seed as a high source of energy during cold temperatures.

I do not recommend using BOSS during the heat of the summer (June, July, and August here in Maine, it may be longer in your area). I feel that if fed during hot weather it will make them shed more and could cause gut troubles by hair blockage. But if you have a rabbit that is stuck in a molt, then this is a great additive to add to your rabbits diet. By adding the extra calories and protein this will get them to blow their coat and get in new growth. If rabbits are overfed BOSS or fed to often this can also trigger a molt so feed in moderation. This is used as a tonic not a feed!

Her are the general nutritional components of black oil sunflower seeds, I also listed some of the benefits of each next to the item

28 percent fat – Fat in a rabbits diet functions as an energy source, aids in the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E and K). It also adds luster and gloss to the fur and helps slow shedding.

25 percent fiber – This helps provide the bulk and forage requirements for a rabbit and also promoting a healthy gut.

15 percent protein – Protein is need for the growth, disease resistance, milk production, general health and reproduction.

Calcium – Calcium plays a key role in bodily processes, such as heart function, muscle contraction, coagulation, and electrolyte levels in the blood. But you do not want excess calcium in a rabbits diet as this can cause urinary tract problems.

B vitamins- A rabbit produces its own b vitamin by bacteria in the hind-gut of the rabbit, their requirements are fulfilled through caecotrophy. So B is not very important to a domestic rabbit.

Iron-

Vitamin E – helps to remove toxins out of your rabbit’s body this helps to maintain the immune system.

Potassium- Rabbit need this when they’re sick as they lose potassium through watery feces.

Feeding rabbits BOSS- Rabbits should only be fed BOSS as condition mix or tonic treat, 6 seeds per a rabbit top dressed in the feed hopper or crock is enough! DO NOT OVERFEED! You do not want fat lazy rabbits. Feed with the hulls on this is a good added fiber for the rabbits digestive track. Some show breeders feed BOSS as a daily conditioner one week before a show. I do not think you should add them to a bulk bag of feed because you will not be able to control the amount of BOSS each of your rabbits consumes. Black oil sunflower seeds are not a complete source of nutrition for your rabbit, offering only a few necessary nutrients your rabbit needs. These should only be offered as part of a rabbit’s diet, not the sole source of nutrition.

Vitamins A and E are vulnerable to poor or prolonged storage in feeds. Both of these vitamins are needed for the willingness and ability of rabbits to breed. Instead of increasing the pellets, I suggest feeding about a tablespoon of black oil sunflower seeds for Vitamin E and a good handful of dark leafy greens (dandelions, plantain, raspberry,and Kale are fine) for Vitamin A. If the rabbits have never had greens, start with just a couple of leaves and work up to more to help with those unwilling does.

PROS- They are packed with nutrition, amino acids, and calories, so they are a great supplement for almost any rabbit to one degree or another. They do help with shiny coats also. The side benefit is the volunteer sunflowers that sprout. I grew some out this summer (Will be growing a plot of the in 2013) and saved the seed heads, then pulled the plant and gave it to the rabbits as a green treat in the cages. They would not only eat the leaves, but they would gnaw the stems until it was all gone!

CONS- Not to many, but possibly too high in protein and calories, which could cause heat issues during summer months. If fed too much too often maybe some weight gain, and molting problems. I believe the positives of BOSS out weight the negatives. Definitely feed with shells as they add necessary fiber and are easy to chew through for rabbits. Black oil sunflower seeds often stimulate your rabbit to gain weight due to their high fat content. This extra body weight helps rabbits maintain their body temperature in the winter, fall, and spring months. Your rabbit may not need to maintain as much body heat in the summer months, so consider cutting back the amount of black oil sunflower seeds your rabbit consumes during those months.
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Feed Story....To Be Continued

1/19/2015

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I thought I wouldn't have feed issues. In the two years I've been feeding Albers, I wasn't anything but happy with it....until now. 
This bag of feed has been horrible! The bag before it wasn't much better. It is filled with powdery fines, corn contaminants (when the feed label doesn't even have corn listed as an ingredient), and these light tan pellets you can see below. 
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A couple of my rabbits haven't been finishing their daily feed like usual. Yesterday Rosie didn't touch her feed, but would drink her water and nibble hay and treats. She ate some today, don't worry. I have been so unhappy with Albers. It's not just me. There are many others that have been picking out the pale pellets like I have, and their bags are filled with the fines as well. It could just be a bad milling season, but I'm not going to risk spending money on another one of these bags.
It's been really discouraging. There are so many other feeds out there, but not every one has everything I want in the feed or the feed has something I don't want in it. My family has a lot of allergies, myself included, so we eat very healthily. I want my rabbits to eat healthy too! 
I have been researching other feeds, trying to find one that is readily available and has good reviews. So far it looks like Purina Show is the one we will be switching to. I've heard that it does contain enough fiber, which has caused some people's Hollands to have runny poop. Since I feed a lot of hay no matter what, I'm *hoping* it won't be a problem. 
This post will be continued in a couple weeks once we make the big switch. The first step, once more of this bag is gone, is to mix feeds, which I like to do over the course of a week or two.
So....to be continued.... ;)
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Can You Feed a Rabbit Without Using Pellets?

2/24/2014

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There is a lot of controversy on this subject in the rabbit world. Most rabbit breeders/pet owners feed pellets, and some only feed their rabbits hay and vegetables in place of the pellets. Others only feed a little bit of pellets, but the bulk of the diet is hay and veggies.
It is possible to feed rabbits without using pellets, but is it healthy?

I believe that it is easier and healthier for a rabbit to have a good supply of pellets in the diet. Without feeding pellets, more supplements need to be used to see that the rabbit gets all the vitamins and nutrients it needs. 
Rabbits are herbivores, and their diets should primarily be based on herbs, dark greens and veggies. However, because Hollands are such a small breed, their tiny bodies don't take the richness of the fruits/veggies very well. Babies absolutely need the pellets to support their rapid growth. Baby bunnies should never be fed fruits or veggies. 
Pellets were designed to provide the rabbit with all the necessary nutrients and vitamins without you having to provide a lot of other supplements. 

Pellets aren't very expensive either. I can buy a 50lb bag for only $20 at my local feed store. Also, some feeds have all the necessary fiber and hay in the pellet so that you don't even need to give the rabbit hay. Albers Rabbit Feed says that hay doesn't need to be fed, but I still feed it because it helps prevent boredom as well as keep the teeth neat and trim.

Rabbits shouldn't be fed only pellets; this can lead to obesity and problems elsewhere. Too many pellets can also cause digestive problems and runny poop. If you have a rabbit that frequently has poop sticking to its butt, decrease the amount of pellets that you feed and give the rabbit more hay. Also give the rabbit a bit of oats daily. The dry, rolled oats help to dry things up. 
I feed half a cup of rabbit food per day. All my rabbits have done well on this. Some rabbits will need more then others, depending on how active they are, their age, and their size (some Hollands are bigger/smaller then others), but I find that half a cup usually works for everyone. Babies still living with mom get as much as they want to support their rapid growth. 

Buy a good pellet. Don't buy the cheapest thing out there; often that isn't the best. There wouldn't be a point in giving our rabbits pellets if the pellet wasn't good for them or was missing essential nutrients. 

What's your opinion on this subject? I'd love to hear your thoughts!
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Baby Bunny Diet

2/14/2014

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Because of the baby Holland Lop's delicate digestive system, they need to eat differently then adult Hollands. What does that mean? 
As soon as you bring your baby home, be sure to provide it with half a cup of my feed/your feed mixed half/half (1/4 cup of each), until the baggie of feed I gave you is gone. This should be, if you mix it properly, about a week with the half/half feed. 
If you're going to feed a pet store rabbit food, I recommend Kaytee Forti-Diet Pro Health Food
They sell this at most Petcos, but not at the PetSmarts I've checked. There are two different kinds you can buy. The adult feed and the feed for babies. The only difference in the feeds I think is the amount of protein and vitamins. Babies need more protein then the adults, to support their rapid growth. Most feeds have enough protein to support all ages of rabbits. Those are always the best, but not everyone has the space to store 50lb bags or the bunnies to eat it all up before it goes bad! 
It also comes with little red treats that I just picked out and put into a baggie and fed as rewards when my house rabbit did something good. 
I used to feed this food when I had just one pet rabbit, before I switched over to Albers when I started my rabbitry. 
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Water Bottle vs. Water Crock

11/23/2013

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Water Bottle

Water bottles are pretty universal, and the most popular way of giving water to your rabbit. Water bottles come in tons of sizes, colors, and styles. They can be made out of either glass or plastic. 
My rabbits are used to drinking from ball-tip water bottles. They can adjust to a wire-tip bottle or crock, just make sure they are actually learning properly and drinking the water. Rabbits are fast learners. 
Water bottles have to be cleaned thoroughly once a week or so with a special pet water bottle brush. 
Water bottles keep the water clean and fresh. 

Water Crock (bowl)

Water crocks are commonly used in rabbitries with over twenty rabbits and that live in colder climates. It's easy to fill up a crock with water or toss it in the dishwasher to clean it. If the water freezes, you can just bang the thing on something and the ice pops right out.
Water bowls are often very small and need to be refilled several times a day. The rabbit can urinate in its water, defecate in it, or just plain spill it. 
In my opinion, the water bottle is the best choice just because it stays cleaner and lasts longer. 
No matter the method of providing water you use, the rabbit should have water constantly available. 
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Hay

11/19/2013

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Hay, no matter the kind you buy, should be sweet-smelling, dry and clean. Some hays have more weeds then others, and more dry brown grass, but this isn't a problem for our rabbits. 
There are many different kinds of hay. Even though it doesn't really matter the type you buy, each one has its pros and cons. I have only really tried Orchard Grass and Timothy, so those are the varieties I am going to talk about. However, there are many other kinds of hay, and all of them would be effective in providing fiber for the rabbit, decreasing boredom, and wearing down the constant-growing teeth. 

Orchard Grass Hay: Orchard grass hay is a softer hay that my rabbits seem to like more then Timothy. It has very little weeds and brown grass. My favorite. 


Timothy Hay: Currently I am feeding Timothy hay because my friend gave me 20lbs of it for free. Timothy hay is coarse and messier then other hays, but because of it's coarseness it helps keep the teeth worn down better then any other hay. Both Timothy and Orchard Grass are very similar nutrition-wise, and if you feed one of these, the rabbit will always be grateful for a little change in hays every once a while. 


Alfalfa Hay: Even though I haven't tried Alfalfa hay, it's considered a big no-no. Alfalfa is too high in protein, and has been shown to cause kidney problems in most rabbits that eat it continuously. Most feeds are Alfalfa-based, which is completely fine. Alfalfa-based pellets are really why we wouldn't feed Alfalfa hay. It's just too much for the rabbit's digestive system. If you feed a Timothy-based pellet, then Alfalfa hay in small amounts would be O.K. 


WHERE TO BUY HAY

Pet Stores: Pet store hay is generally older, dusty, and close to molding. However, I used to get my hay at a pet store, and they have a ton of varieties and sizes to fit your needs. It's generally the most expensive way to buy hay. If you live nowhere near a feed store, though, this may be your only option. 


Feed Stores: Many local feed stores will sell different varieties of hay for really cheap. The only problem is that it's sold by the bale - and often, you can't break down the bale. A 120lb bale of hay isn't easily stored. It would also go bad way before it was gone if you just have a single rabbit. It's still a good idea to look into it, because this is usually the best quality of hay you can find. 


A Local Farmer: If you live in the country, this is also something to look into. Many farmers could sell you a few pounds of hay for very cheap if they grow hay or raise horses. Of course, if you live in the city, like me, this isn't an option. 


Online: I buy my hay here but it's really expensive. I'm going to start buying at our feed store, but as of right now, we don't have anywhere to put 120lbs of hay! The Bunny Bytes hay is very fresh, because it's made in WA, but even though I'm so close to the facility, it still costs just as much as the hay to ship to my door. 
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Treats

10/26/2013

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Rabbits, just like humans, love a little extra treats in the diet. As long as the treats don't interfere with the rabbit's hunger for its pellets and hay, and the rabbit doesn't become obese, we have no reason to withhold a yummy "something".For treats, I prefer giving fresh fruits/veggies to older rabbits and oats to babies. Store-bought treats with added sugar are just bad for the rabbit's teeth and don't need to be bothered with. If you want to feed something other then a fruit or vegetable, try Special Bunny Cookies made with everything a rabbit over 6mos can eat!!! You don't need to add the honey, because rabbits don't really have a sweet tooth, and your rabbit will appreciate it just as much as a pat on the head!! I'm going to be making these soon for my bunnies, but so far I haven't got around to it. 
There are certain treats that rabbits love. There are other treats that would make them sick of fed to them. Here's a list of what rabbits can/can't eat:

GOOD
Alfalfa Sprouts, Apples & Apple branches, Artichoke, Asparagus, Banana (no skin), Basil, Beet Greens, Blackberry Leaves, Black Oil Sunflower Seeds,  Carrots and Carrot Tops, Cauliflower, Celery, Cheerios (not many), Clover, Coriander (Cilantro), Dandelion Greens and Flowers, Eggplant, Grass, Kale, Mint, Mustard Greens, Oatmeal (plain dry), Parsley, Peaches, Peppermint Leaves, Peppers- Sweet, Pineapple, Pinecones, Plums, Pumpkin, Pumpkin Leaves, Radishes & Leaves, Shredded Wheat (plain), Spinach, Strawberry Leaves and Strawberries, Summer Squash, Zucchini, Turnips, Turnip Greens
NEVER FEED ANY RABBIT UNDER 6 MONTHS ANY FRUITS/VEGGIES OR THEY COULD GET DIARRHEA! ONES IN BOLD ARE THE ONLY ONES IN THE ABOVE LIST THAT BABIES CAN HAVE

BAD
Alfalfa Hay, Apple seeds, Baby Carrots (treated with preservatives), Banana Peel, Broccoli, Cabbage, Candy, Carpet, Cherries and Cherry leaves, Citrus Peels, Corn, Dried Fruit, Lettuce, Nuts, Pear Seeds
NEVER FEED LETTUCE! IT CAN CAUSE STOMACH ACHES AND DIARRHEA!

My rabbits especially seem to love their oats, carrots, kale, peaches and strawberries, and celery. 
Some breeders give their rabbits bread. We don't, because we hardly ever have it in the house (everyone in my family besides my dad is allergic to gluten and dairy), and I don't believe it is very good for the bunnies' digestive system. 
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Pellets

10/24/2013

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This post is going to be mostly what makes up a good rabbit pellet and what rabbits need in a pellet. Holland Lops are very sensitive and can't handle things that bigger, meat-breed rabbits can. The point of a good rabbit feed is to be well-balanced and have everything a rabbit needs without providing a ton of other supplements. 
I feed my rabbits Albers Rabbit Feed. It's fantastic and I've never had to use any other feed. I agree with the ingredients and everything it has in it. No matter the feed you buy, you should always look for these traits:

16% PROTEIN: Hollands cannot have high protein because they are a small breed. Under 16%, for Holland Lops, is not enough protein for this active breed. 

AT LEAST 16% FIBER: Albers Rabbit Feed has between 18% and 21% fiber. The more fiber it has, the least amount of hay you need to feed. Hay should still be in the diet because it's what consists of wild rabbit's diets, and helps keep the teeth at a normal length. 

FAT CONTENT: Alber's has 2% crude fat. There should be as little fat as possible, yet still some. 

SALT: There should be some salt in the pellets. If there is none, offer a salt spool. Albers has a relatively low salt content which I don't like very much, but treats and oats provides enough salt without the spool. 

VITAMINS AND CALCIUM: Vitamins and calcium are optional. Most feeds have added vitamins and calcium, I have never seen a feed without. 

TIMOTHY OR ALFALFA BASED: Albers is Alfalfa-based. If you feed an Alfalfa-based pellets, never feed Alfalfa hay. 

NO CORN!! : Rabbits cannot have corn. Corn clogs their digestive system and doesn't break down properly in their stomach. In other words, they are allergic to it. 

Look for an upcoming post on hay, the best kinds to buy, and the best places to buy hay! 
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    My name is Holly.

    I'm glad you're here! Don't be a ghost; leave a comment every once and a while! Let's talk ;) 
    A little about me - I love breeding and raising Holland Lop rabbits! I have been blessed the with the opportunity to raise rabbits in the city, and I am so grateful!
    Besides rabbit breeding, I have a babysitting business, and I am an author. I hope to have a novel published in the next couple years or so!
    In this blog I hope to post daily articles and updates on the rabbitry. Thank you for following and I hope you enjoy! Don't be shy; feel free to leave a comment once and a while! I would love to get to know you.

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