Breeding Holland Lops
(can also be applied to other breeds)
Dear Reader,
When I was first starting out, I read everything I could on the subject of raising and breeding Holland Lops.
One of the best parts of raising rabbits, for me, was experiencing my first litter. A lot of hard work and careful steps were taken to be sure that these balls of fluff came into the world safe and sound. I was luckier then most; my doe, Gracie, had her first litter completely without my help, she was a pro already. She had her babies in the middle of the night, and I woke up to a nest full of clean, warm bunnies. She took perfect care of them and has, so far, never had one of her babies die.
Her second litter was probably more exciting, since her first was also coupled with the stress of "will they survive?" or "am I doing everything right?".
A lot more then most people think goes into choosing the mating pair, getting a successful pregnancy, and then getting a successful litter that makes it to weaning age and on. If you're looking for a stress-free, easy hobby, breeding rabbits is not for you. But if you have a love for this amazing species, and want to experience the joy of showing, breeding and raising Holland Lop rabbits, welcome, and keep reading!
These are all the methods that I more commonly hear of and that I use. This isn't the "right" way to raise or breed rabbits. Everybody has their own way, their own methods that work for them, and I encourage you to read more (don't stop here!), and find ways that work for you. Lots of trial and error occurs in raising rabbits. Hopefully, with the help of other breeders, you will be able to bypass some of the more common but discouraging setbacks.
I am excited to help you on this wonderful journey of raising and breeding rabbits. A 3 week old baby bunny is probably the most adorable animal on the planet. Hopefully, after doing research, starting with this page, you will be prepared for your own batch of baby bunnies!
Sincerely,
Holly Wisniew
Owner of Holly's Hollands Rabbitry :)
When I was first starting out, I read everything I could on the subject of raising and breeding Holland Lops.
One of the best parts of raising rabbits, for me, was experiencing my first litter. A lot of hard work and careful steps were taken to be sure that these balls of fluff came into the world safe and sound. I was luckier then most; my doe, Gracie, had her first litter completely without my help, she was a pro already. She had her babies in the middle of the night, and I woke up to a nest full of clean, warm bunnies. She took perfect care of them and has, so far, never had one of her babies die.
Her second litter was probably more exciting, since her first was also coupled with the stress of "will they survive?" or "am I doing everything right?".
A lot more then most people think goes into choosing the mating pair, getting a successful pregnancy, and then getting a successful litter that makes it to weaning age and on. If you're looking for a stress-free, easy hobby, breeding rabbits is not for you. But if you have a love for this amazing species, and want to experience the joy of showing, breeding and raising Holland Lop rabbits, welcome, and keep reading!
These are all the methods that I more commonly hear of and that I use. This isn't the "right" way to raise or breed rabbits. Everybody has their own way, their own methods that work for them, and I encourage you to read more (don't stop here!), and find ways that work for you. Lots of trial and error occurs in raising rabbits. Hopefully, with the help of other breeders, you will be able to bypass some of the more common but discouraging setbacks.
I am excited to help you on this wonderful journey of raising and breeding rabbits. A 3 week old baby bunny is probably the most adorable animal on the planet. Hopefully, after doing research, starting with this page, you will be prepared for your own batch of baby bunnies!
Sincerely,
Holly Wisniew
Owner of Holly's Hollands Rabbitry :)
WHEN TO BREED
Holland Lops must be at least 6 months old before they are bred. Bucks can be as young as 4 and a half months, but generally it's best to wait until 6 months when you are sure they are ready and aggressive enough breeders to produce kits. Also make sure their testicles have dropped. If you have a doe that is over two years old and has not been bred, I recommend getting a different doe to breed. The hips of a doe fuse together as she gets older and the older the doe, the more likely complications during birth are. Even breeding a doe over 1 year for the first time can be risky, though it has been done several times by different breeders with success.
I try and breed my does for the first time as close to 6 months as possible. If they have a show I want them to go to as seniors before being bred, I will often postpone their breeding date. But I almost always try to get a litter out of a doe before she turns a year old.
In other breeds, those that mature at 8-12lbs, they shouldn't be bred until they reach their mature weight, usually around 8 months. The larger breeds (those that mature at over 12lbs), shouldn't be bred until a year or so.
Just because a rabbit shouldn't be bred under 6 months doesn't mean that it can't. Rabbits can become pregnant or impregnate a doe as young as 12 weeks. It's not good for a rabbit to have a litter before she is fully grown (at 6mos). Having a litter can stunt rabbit growth. Young moms won't know how to care for their kits and it's likely they'll all die or she will be harmed during labor.
PICKING THE DATE
A rabbit's gestation is 28-33 days, with the majority of does delivering on day 30-31. Before breeding, pick a date on the calendar that you want a litter to be born on. Make sure you will be home to give the doe her nesting box, and be there if the doe has any complications. It's also wise to plan ahead and make sure you will be there during the 2 months in which the babies will be with the mother, should any problems arise before they are weaned. Count backward from that date 31 days, which is the date when you will breed your doe.
Rabbits can conceive and bear a litter any time of year. In the hot summer, the extra babies in the doe will make her uncomfortable, and she might get too hot. It can be dangerous for babies to be born in the winter, as they are born completely hairless, so if the mother doesn't do a good enough job on the nest, they could all pass. Thus, the spring and autumn are the best times to have a pregnant doe. A breeder that wants to breed year-round will work against the weather, and not take it into account, just be ready for whatever is to come. From being there when the babies are born to make sure they don't get too cold, or being sure to keep the doe from getting too hot in her pregnancy.
Holland Lops must be at least 6 months old before they are bred. Bucks can be as young as 4 and a half months, but generally it's best to wait until 6 months when you are sure they are ready and aggressive enough breeders to produce kits. Also make sure their testicles have dropped. If you have a doe that is over two years old and has not been bred, I recommend getting a different doe to breed. The hips of a doe fuse together as she gets older and the older the doe, the more likely complications during birth are. Even breeding a doe over 1 year for the first time can be risky, though it has been done several times by different breeders with success.
I try and breed my does for the first time as close to 6 months as possible. If they have a show I want them to go to as seniors before being bred, I will often postpone their breeding date. But I almost always try to get a litter out of a doe before she turns a year old.
In other breeds, those that mature at 8-12lbs, they shouldn't be bred until they reach their mature weight, usually around 8 months. The larger breeds (those that mature at over 12lbs), shouldn't be bred until a year or so.
Just because a rabbit shouldn't be bred under 6 months doesn't mean that it can't. Rabbits can become pregnant or impregnate a doe as young as 12 weeks. It's not good for a rabbit to have a litter before she is fully grown (at 6mos). Having a litter can stunt rabbit growth. Young moms won't know how to care for their kits and it's likely they'll all die or she will be harmed during labor.
PICKING THE DATE
A rabbit's gestation is 28-33 days, with the majority of does delivering on day 30-31. Before breeding, pick a date on the calendar that you want a litter to be born on. Make sure you will be home to give the doe her nesting box, and be there if the doe has any complications. It's also wise to plan ahead and make sure you will be there during the 2 months in which the babies will be with the mother, should any problems arise before they are weaned. Count backward from that date 31 days, which is the date when you will breed your doe.
Rabbits can conceive and bear a litter any time of year. In the hot summer, the extra babies in the doe will make her uncomfortable, and she might get too hot. It can be dangerous for babies to be born in the winter, as they are born completely hairless, so if the mother doesn't do a good enough job on the nest, they could all pass. Thus, the spring and autumn are the best times to have a pregnant doe. A breeder that wants to breed year-round will work against the weather, and not take it into account, just be ready for whatever is to come. From being there when the babies are born to make sure they don't get too cold, or being sure to keep the doe from getting too hot in her pregnancy.
My buck, Blue Storm's Sir Lancelot, got to see a couple does recently and we hopefully have 2 new litters on the way!
THE BUCK
I recommend breeding rabbits of the same breed. Mixed breed rabbits will be harder to find homes for, and will not be able to be shown. You will not be able to tell with surety the size a mix-breed rabbit will be at maturity. Temperament can also be hard to predict.
If you don't own a buck, you will need to "borrow" one for breeding. Some breeders, especially if you bought the doe from them, will allow you the use of their buck for a fee. The fee is usually something like $50 or pick of the litter. Breeders that didn't sell you your doe will probably not let you borrow a buck of theirs, since they don't know where it grew up and diseases can be transmitted through breeding.
BREEDING FOR PET, SHOW OR MEAT
PET:
Pet rabbits can be any breed or a mix of breeds, as most pet owners don't care if their rabbit is purebred or not, only that it has a good temperament. The pet market is not a very reliable system, so I encourage you to breed for another main reason. I usually have no trouble finding homes for my pet rabbits, but I also have show and breeding outlets and get more owners that way.
SHOW:
There's a lively and active world of showing rabbits, and it's fun, so why not give it a try yourself?! Raising and breeding show rabbits is trickier then just making sure the rabbits have a good personality. To be shown, the rabbit has to have a certain standard to attain to. You must breed for a certain look and size among other things.
MEAT:
Rabbit meat is low in calories and fat and high in protein. It's similar to chicken and can be substituted in almost all chicken recipes. Not everyone likes the taste of rabbit meat, so before you decide to breed for meat, taste it first to make sure you can handle it! To breed meat rabbits, all you need are big, "fleshy", or "meaty" bunnies that produce a lot of kits and come into a certain weight by a certain age. Not all rabbits will make a suitable meat rabbit. There are breeds that are bred for just that purpose. Not all meat rabbits are white with red eyes, either.
FUR:
Angora fiber is becoming increasingly popular. The rabbit doesn't have to be killed for its fur, just shaved, and the fur can very easily be made into sweaters, hats, gloves, scarves and mittens.
BEFORE BREEDING HEALTH CHECKS
Both the buck and doe will need to be checked over before they are bred to make sure that they are fit for breeding and that they are healthy. Check out THIS page as a guide to make sure your rabbits are healthy.
BUCK - Check the buck's genitals. He should have two testicles on either side of his genitals. His penis should extend when you press lightly on his genitals. Make sure his nails are trimmed and neat. Check for any diseases and make sure he is feeling up for breeding and isn't sick or too tired.
DOE - Check her genitals like mentioned above. Make sure she doesn't have any diseases, isn't sick, and is feeling well. Make sure her nails are trimmed and neat. Make sure your doe isn't overweight, I highly suggest weighing her before you breed her to make sure (this will only work, of course, if you know her normal weight). Does that are overweight have a hard time "catching" and getting pregnant and have a higher risk of complications in delivery. You don't want to put a doe on a diet while she's pregnant.
I recommend giving the buck and doe some apple cider vinegar (Bragg's brand), in their water for a week up until the breeding date. 2 teaspoons (capful) per gallon of water is the recommended dosage. Not only with the ACV keep the rabbits healthy, but it help them be more willing to be bred, and make the hormonal changes necessary in the doe's body to conceive.
If a doe's vent (privates), is swollen and dark pink/red/purple, she wants to breed and likely conceive. But if her vent is light pink or even whitish, she probably won't conceive after the mating. The color can change day to day. If one day the vent is light pink, the next day it might be really dark. ACV (mentioned above), also helps the color change.
THE MATING
Rabbits do not go through heat cycles like other animals. They are induced ovulators, meaning that they only ovulate after mating. Still, Holland Lop does can be very picky and will not breed if they aren't in the mood. To tell if your doe is "in the mood", check her genital area. If her vent is a very light pink, chances are she won't want to be bred and may fight the buck. If her vent is a deep pink or purple, you will probably breed her just fine that day. The color can change from day to day, so if she isn't in the mood one day, just try again the next.
Make sure you are there with them when the breeding takes place. If the doe doesn't want to breed she may fight the buck and both can be injured if you turn your back for more then a minute or two.
There are several different ways of breeding your rabbits. Becoming increasingly popular is "table breeding", that is, having the two rabbits on a table or high surface where you can watch everything that's going on and even help. This is the method that I use.
The most common way to breed is natural cage breeding. NEVER put the buck in the doe's cage. Does can be territorial and the buck will be more interested in his surroundings then in mating. Always bring the doe to the buck's cage. Some people think that the buck and doe should be together for hours, overnight, or even days. This isn't the best way. It's only a 10 second job, if both are into it.
If both are first-timers, you may need to help out. The buck might mount the doe's head or the doe might try to run away.
Sometimes the doe will mount the buck first. This is ok, it means that she's into it and should be easy to breed.
If the doe is willing to mate, she will lie like a log and lift her tail and raise her heels off the ground. This is the proper mating position. If she keeps her tail down and doesn't lift, she is likely not wanting to mate.
When the two have connected, the buck will fall off and may even grunt or scream. Sometimes he'll thump after breeding.
Take her out and pick her up, cradling her like a baby. You should be able to see sperm on her vent, this shows that they connected. Hold her like this for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, her back with the buck and do the same thing again.
I try and make sure the buck and doe have connected at least 3 times.
The doe will release several eggs 12 hours after the initial mating. Some breeders rebreed the doe 12 hours after the first breeding, to make sure the sperm gets to the eggs.
The point of more breedings is to increase the chances of conception, increase the number of eggs released (each breeding will release some eggs), and to increase the number of sperm inside the doe.
HOW DO I KNOW MY DOE IS PREGNANT?
At two weeks in the rabbit's gestation, some breeders put her back with the buck. If she mounts him and tries to breed, she isn't pregnant. If she growls or tries to attack him, she is pregnant. This is shaky at best. Some does will breed again even while they are carrying a litter. Does can have two litters since they have two uterine horns. If she gets pregnant with multiple litters, chances are neither of them will survive, and the doe has a high risk of dying during birth as well.
I have one doe this has worked with. She instantly growls at the buck when she's pregnant, and wanting to breed again if she isn't. But one of my other does didn't really pay attention to the buck when I put her with him. She wasn't eager to breed but she also wasn't being mean to the buck.
Another way is palpation. This should be done at 10-14 days. If you get really good at palpating, some breeders can even tell how many babies are in the doe. I generally feel 1-2 baby bubbles when I palpate, and my doe has had 5 kits each time. See this BLOG for more info on palpating and a helpful video.
Another way is weighing your doe at 14 days gestation. I always weigh them when I breed them, and record their weight. By 14 days the majority of my does have gained several ounces which indicates a pregnancy. If they haven't gained anything they most likely aren't pregnant. However, one of my does stayed at the same weight until the week she delivered. So even this method isn't full proof either.
Some does will begin to nest by carrying hay in their mouths and pulling fur. They will make a little nest in the corner of their cage. Sometimes does can do this even if they aren't pregnant. See below, under "false pregnancy". One of my does always nests at 23 days when she's pregnant. Another doe nests at 14 days when she isn't pregnant, and at 28 days when she is pregnant.
Behavioral changes are another big way to tell if your rabbit is pregnant or not. Some pregnant does will get really mean, become territorial of their cage (which is now their "nest"), lunge, or even try to bite. However, does can also do this if they really want to be bred. And several of my does have had no behavioral change at all while pregnant. They stay sweet and calm as always.
So as you can see, no method is entirely full proof. Get to know your does and watch them during pregnancy. Use the methods that work for you and discard the ones that don't.
I recommend breeding rabbits of the same breed. Mixed breed rabbits will be harder to find homes for, and will not be able to be shown. You will not be able to tell with surety the size a mix-breed rabbit will be at maturity. Temperament can also be hard to predict.
If you don't own a buck, you will need to "borrow" one for breeding. Some breeders, especially if you bought the doe from them, will allow you the use of their buck for a fee. The fee is usually something like $50 or pick of the litter. Breeders that didn't sell you your doe will probably not let you borrow a buck of theirs, since they don't know where it grew up and diseases can be transmitted through breeding.
BREEDING FOR PET, SHOW OR MEAT
PET:
Pet rabbits can be any breed or a mix of breeds, as most pet owners don't care if their rabbit is purebred or not, only that it has a good temperament. The pet market is not a very reliable system, so I encourage you to breed for another main reason. I usually have no trouble finding homes for my pet rabbits, but I also have show and breeding outlets and get more owners that way.
SHOW:
There's a lively and active world of showing rabbits, and it's fun, so why not give it a try yourself?! Raising and breeding show rabbits is trickier then just making sure the rabbits have a good personality. To be shown, the rabbit has to have a certain standard to attain to. You must breed for a certain look and size among other things.
MEAT:
Rabbit meat is low in calories and fat and high in protein. It's similar to chicken and can be substituted in almost all chicken recipes. Not everyone likes the taste of rabbit meat, so before you decide to breed for meat, taste it first to make sure you can handle it! To breed meat rabbits, all you need are big, "fleshy", or "meaty" bunnies that produce a lot of kits and come into a certain weight by a certain age. Not all rabbits will make a suitable meat rabbit. There are breeds that are bred for just that purpose. Not all meat rabbits are white with red eyes, either.
FUR:
Angora fiber is becoming increasingly popular. The rabbit doesn't have to be killed for its fur, just shaved, and the fur can very easily be made into sweaters, hats, gloves, scarves and mittens.
BEFORE BREEDING HEALTH CHECKS
Both the buck and doe will need to be checked over before they are bred to make sure that they are fit for breeding and that they are healthy. Check out THIS page as a guide to make sure your rabbits are healthy.
BUCK - Check the buck's genitals. He should have two testicles on either side of his genitals. His penis should extend when you press lightly on his genitals. Make sure his nails are trimmed and neat. Check for any diseases and make sure he is feeling up for breeding and isn't sick or too tired.
DOE - Check her genitals like mentioned above. Make sure she doesn't have any diseases, isn't sick, and is feeling well. Make sure her nails are trimmed and neat. Make sure your doe isn't overweight, I highly suggest weighing her before you breed her to make sure (this will only work, of course, if you know her normal weight). Does that are overweight have a hard time "catching" and getting pregnant and have a higher risk of complications in delivery. You don't want to put a doe on a diet while she's pregnant.
I recommend giving the buck and doe some apple cider vinegar (Bragg's brand), in their water for a week up until the breeding date. 2 teaspoons (capful) per gallon of water is the recommended dosage. Not only with the ACV keep the rabbits healthy, but it help them be more willing to be bred, and make the hormonal changes necessary in the doe's body to conceive.
If a doe's vent (privates), is swollen and dark pink/red/purple, she wants to breed and likely conceive. But if her vent is light pink or even whitish, she probably won't conceive after the mating. The color can change day to day. If one day the vent is light pink, the next day it might be really dark. ACV (mentioned above), also helps the color change.
THE MATING
Rabbits do not go through heat cycles like other animals. They are induced ovulators, meaning that they only ovulate after mating. Still, Holland Lop does can be very picky and will not breed if they aren't in the mood. To tell if your doe is "in the mood", check her genital area. If her vent is a very light pink, chances are she won't want to be bred and may fight the buck. If her vent is a deep pink or purple, you will probably breed her just fine that day. The color can change from day to day, so if she isn't in the mood one day, just try again the next.
Make sure you are there with them when the breeding takes place. If the doe doesn't want to breed she may fight the buck and both can be injured if you turn your back for more then a minute or two.
There are several different ways of breeding your rabbits. Becoming increasingly popular is "table breeding", that is, having the two rabbits on a table or high surface where you can watch everything that's going on and even help. This is the method that I use.
The most common way to breed is natural cage breeding. NEVER put the buck in the doe's cage. Does can be territorial and the buck will be more interested in his surroundings then in mating. Always bring the doe to the buck's cage. Some people think that the buck and doe should be together for hours, overnight, or even days. This isn't the best way. It's only a 10 second job, if both are into it.
If both are first-timers, you may need to help out. The buck might mount the doe's head or the doe might try to run away.
Sometimes the doe will mount the buck first. This is ok, it means that she's into it and should be easy to breed.
If the doe is willing to mate, she will lie like a log and lift her tail and raise her heels off the ground. This is the proper mating position. If she keeps her tail down and doesn't lift, she is likely not wanting to mate.
When the two have connected, the buck will fall off and may even grunt or scream. Sometimes he'll thump after breeding.
Take her out and pick her up, cradling her like a baby. You should be able to see sperm on her vent, this shows that they connected. Hold her like this for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, her back with the buck and do the same thing again.
I try and make sure the buck and doe have connected at least 3 times.
The doe will release several eggs 12 hours after the initial mating. Some breeders rebreed the doe 12 hours after the first breeding, to make sure the sperm gets to the eggs.
The point of more breedings is to increase the chances of conception, increase the number of eggs released (each breeding will release some eggs), and to increase the number of sperm inside the doe.
HOW DO I KNOW MY DOE IS PREGNANT?
At two weeks in the rabbit's gestation, some breeders put her back with the buck. If she mounts him and tries to breed, she isn't pregnant. If she growls or tries to attack him, she is pregnant. This is shaky at best. Some does will breed again even while they are carrying a litter. Does can have two litters since they have two uterine horns. If she gets pregnant with multiple litters, chances are neither of them will survive, and the doe has a high risk of dying during birth as well.
I have one doe this has worked with. She instantly growls at the buck when she's pregnant, and wanting to breed again if she isn't. But one of my other does didn't really pay attention to the buck when I put her with him. She wasn't eager to breed but she also wasn't being mean to the buck.
Another way is palpation. This should be done at 10-14 days. If you get really good at palpating, some breeders can even tell how many babies are in the doe. I generally feel 1-2 baby bubbles when I palpate, and my doe has had 5 kits each time. See this BLOG for more info on palpating and a helpful video.
Another way is weighing your doe at 14 days gestation. I always weigh them when I breed them, and record their weight. By 14 days the majority of my does have gained several ounces which indicates a pregnancy. If they haven't gained anything they most likely aren't pregnant. However, one of my does stayed at the same weight until the week she delivered. So even this method isn't full proof either.
Some does will begin to nest by carrying hay in their mouths and pulling fur. They will make a little nest in the corner of their cage. Sometimes does can do this even if they aren't pregnant. See below, under "false pregnancy". One of my does always nests at 23 days when she's pregnant. Another doe nests at 14 days when she isn't pregnant, and at 28 days when she is pregnant.
Behavioral changes are another big way to tell if your rabbit is pregnant or not. Some pregnant does will get really mean, become territorial of their cage (which is now their "nest"), lunge, or even try to bite. However, does can also do this if they really want to be bred. And several of my does have had no behavioral change at all while pregnant. They stay sweet and calm as always.
So as you can see, no method is entirely full proof. Get to know your does and watch them during pregnancy. Use the methods that work for you and discard the ones that don't.
This doe is pregnant with 6!
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Rabbits will not often get bigger or gain very much weight while pregnant. Dragonfly's Gracie, the doe above, is pregnant in this picture with 5 kits. You can hardly tell!
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CARE OF THE PREGNANT DOE
While your doe is pregnant, not much needs to change. I suggest daily exercise to keep her fit and healthy. Labor is easier on does that are primarily active. Don't increase her feed intake during pregnancy. This can cause the kits to get bigger and be harder for her to deliver. Make sure she has water available at all times. Give her hay daily in case she decides to nest. It's okay to handle your pregnant doe. Be careful around her belly area, but otherwise carry and hold her as normal.
Keep the doe's nails trim and neat, especially when she is about to deliver. It's common for a doe with long, sharp nails to accidently cut her babies when she jumps into the nest box to feed.
While your doe is pregnant, not much needs to change. I suggest daily exercise to keep her fit and healthy. Labor is easier on does that are primarily active. Don't increase her feed intake during pregnancy. This can cause the kits to get bigger and be harder for her to deliver. Make sure she has water available at all times. Give her hay daily in case she decides to nest. It's okay to handle your pregnant doe. Be careful around her belly area, but otherwise carry and hold her as normal.
Keep the doe's nails trim and neat, especially when she is about to deliver. It's common for a doe with long, sharp nails to accidently cut her babies when she jumps into the nest box to feed.
THE NEST BOX
At 27 days you will want to provide the doe with a nest box to have her babies in. Don't put it in her potty corner, she might use it as a litter box. The nest box can be made of metal or steel, or wood. Plastic is not recommended because rabbits can and will chew it, and it can clog their intestines. A steel nest box can be purchased online or at rabbitry stores. Wood ones (like the one above), are easy to make. Most people use plywood.
The weather can have something to do with the kind of box you decide to make, or purchase. Wood nest boxes are best for the winter because they trap heat nicely and keep the kits warm. The metal nest boxes will absorb heat and cold, so if it's really hot and the babies go up against the box, it cook the babies, but if it's too cold the box can freeze them.
I recommend boxes with a slight lid on the top, to keep in heat and try to contain the babies. Some babies try to get out before they are old enough, and the top helps keep them in.
Make sure the box is big enough for your doe to sit in comfortably and turn around. You don't want it to be too small or she won't be able to fit and deliver or nurse her babies, but you also don't want it to be too big, because if it is, she may spend an unnecessary amount of time in the box and soil it and the babies.
NESTING MATERIAL
Every breeder uses something different in nesting material for the nest box. Some use wood shavings, hay, straw, artificial fur, newspaper, or another kind of bedding.
I use hay, newspaper and for winter litters, CareFresh bedding or shredded paper.
I give the doe a box with newspaper in the bottom, and sometimes cardboard. Wood nest boxes don't stay very clean and the newspaper and cardboard helps to soak up urine and keep the box clean for future use. I try to keep the kits off the newspaper and cardboard, so I make sure they always have hay separating them from the newspaper.
I then stuff the box with hay (as full as I can get it) so the doe gets the idea that that's what it's for. I also provide the does with extra hay to nest with.
Luckily my does always pull enough fur so I haven't had to substitute. Since hormones in the doe's body make the doe's fur easy to pull out, you can pluck some yourself from her tummy and legs, rather then putting in artificial fur or another doe's fur. Not only do the does pull fur for the babies to stay warm, it also helps to expose their nipples and makes it easier for the babies to nurse.
FALSE PREGNANCY
Some does will do everything right. They will nest and pull fur, yet no babies will come. This is sometimes a false pregnancy. A false pregnancy is caused by the doe knowing she ovulated, yet the sperm didn't last and so babies weren't conceived. Yet she thinks she's pregnant and acts so.
Some does will nest and pull fur even if they aren't bred. Usually they do this only because they very badly want to have babies.
WHEN WILL MY DOE KINDLE (give birth)?
Most does will kindle in the middle of the night when no one is around. You will probably wake up to babies, rather then see your doe give birth.
Most does pull fur while they are in labor. With my doe's first litter, she pulled fur at 22 days, 28 days, and hours before giving birth. With her second litter, she only pulled fur in labor, and delivered her babies within the hour of when she started pulling fur.
Some breeders say that your doe won't eat, drink, urinate or poop the day they give birth. For me, this is untrue. My does have always eaten and drank the day they deliver.
Keep the doe's area quiet around day 28-32 when she should give birth. The majority of does kindle on day 31. However, all my does have given birth on day 30.
At 27 days you will want to provide the doe with a nest box to have her babies in. Don't put it in her potty corner, she might use it as a litter box. The nest box can be made of metal or steel, or wood. Plastic is not recommended because rabbits can and will chew it, and it can clog their intestines. A steel nest box can be purchased online or at rabbitry stores. Wood ones (like the one above), are easy to make. Most people use plywood.
The weather can have something to do with the kind of box you decide to make, or purchase. Wood nest boxes are best for the winter because they trap heat nicely and keep the kits warm. The metal nest boxes will absorb heat and cold, so if it's really hot and the babies go up against the box, it cook the babies, but if it's too cold the box can freeze them.
I recommend boxes with a slight lid on the top, to keep in heat and try to contain the babies. Some babies try to get out before they are old enough, and the top helps keep them in.
Make sure the box is big enough for your doe to sit in comfortably and turn around. You don't want it to be too small or she won't be able to fit and deliver or nurse her babies, but you also don't want it to be too big, because if it is, she may spend an unnecessary amount of time in the box and soil it and the babies.
NESTING MATERIAL
Every breeder uses something different in nesting material for the nest box. Some use wood shavings, hay, straw, artificial fur, newspaper, or another kind of bedding.
I use hay, newspaper and for winter litters, CareFresh bedding or shredded paper.
I give the doe a box with newspaper in the bottom, and sometimes cardboard. Wood nest boxes don't stay very clean and the newspaper and cardboard helps to soak up urine and keep the box clean for future use. I try to keep the kits off the newspaper and cardboard, so I make sure they always have hay separating them from the newspaper.
I then stuff the box with hay (as full as I can get it) so the doe gets the idea that that's what it's for. I also provide the does with extra hay to nest with.
Luckily my does always pull enough fur so I haven't had to substitute. Since hormones in the doe's body make the doe's fur easy to pull out, you can pluck some yourself from her tummy and legs, rather then putting in artificial fur or another doe's fur. Not only do the does pull fur for the babies to stay warm, it also helps to expose their nipples and makes it easier for the babies to nurse.
FALSE PREGNANCY
Some does will do everything right. They will nest and pull fur, yet no babies will come. This is sometimes a false pregnancy. A false pregnancy is caused by the doe knowing she ovulated, yet the sperm didn't last and so babies weren't conceived. Yet she thinks she's pregnant and acts so.
Some does will nest and pull fur even if they aren't bred. Usually they do this only because they very badly want to have babies.
WHEN WILL MY DOE KINDLE (give birth)?
Most does will kindle in the middle of the night when no one is around. You will probably wake up to babies, rather then see your doe give birth.
Most does pull fur while they are in labor. With my doe's first litter, she pulled fur at 22 days, 28 days, and hours before giving birth. With her second litter, she only pulled fur in labor, and delivered her babies within the hour of when she started pulling fur.
Some breeders say that your doe won't eat, drink, urinate or poop the day they give birth. For me, this is untrue. My does have always eaten and drank the day they deliver.
Keep the doe's area quiet around day 28-32 when she should give birth. The majority of does kindle on day 31. However, all my does have given birth on day 30.
Newborn Holland Lop Kits, 1 Day Old. Born naked and with eyes and ears closed. Not very cute right away, but precious anyway!
CARE OF THE NEWBORN KITS
You can handle the babies immediately after birth, however for mom's sake it's usually wise to wait a few hours to a full day after birth to touch the babies. If your doe is distressed, distract her with a piece of fruit or a favorite treat while you check on the babies.
I usually handle the babies over my lap or over a soft surface. Baby bunnies are extremely wiggly and bouncy - I sometimes call them "popcorn babies"! One minute they'll be sleeping in your hand, the next minute you try to keep from dropping them! They should be handled gently and carefully.
On your first inspection, check for these 5 things (and each subsequent day, check for the 1st, 3rd, and 4th rule).
Don't let baby bunnies wander outside the nest before they open their eyes. In colder weather, don't let them leave the nest until they are around 3 weeks old and have enough fur to keep them warm.
Clean the nest box out at 9 days, to give a nice clean place for the babies to open their eyes. Take out all the soiled fur and hay, and replace it with new, clean hay. Keep all the fur that is dry and clean.
BREED TWO (OR MORE) DOES AT A TIME!
Breeding more then one doe at a time is very beneficial for multiple reasons. I recommend breeding a first-timer the same time you breed a veteran doe.
FOSTERING
I had to foster a baby for the first time recently. He spent the night inside, with his foster mommy's fur (the only other fur I had on hand), and went in to his foster mommy's box with his foster siblings the following morning. It was that easy.
Rabbits only feed their babies at night (usually). I put the new babies in with the nest in the morning, after their feeding from their real mom. Their foster mom wouldn't really mess with them until next feeding time, and by that time they would all smell the same since they all cuddle up together.
Some breeders go as far as putting perfume, vanilla, or Vicks on a doe's nose so everything smells the same to her. Most does are very easygoing and wouldn't mind the extra babies at all.
I wouldn't try to foster babies that are over 2 weeks old. At that point, the doe is used to her babies and their smell and how many of them she has. Instead, you could have a nursing doe lay on her back and nurse the orphaned babies, putting them in a cage by themselves to live.
OPENING EYES
The baby bunnies will begin to open their eyes at 10-12 days old. Don't worry if some babies' eyes are open, and others' are not. If a baby's eyes aren't open by 12 days, I will help it along by opening its eyes with a warm washcloth. If a baby has crustiness around the eye, or its eyes keep sealing back shut, wipe them with a warm washcloth twice a day and clean the nest that it's in, so that gunk keeps away from the eyes.
You can handle the babies immediately after birth, however for mom's sake it's usually wise to wait a few hours to a full day after birth to touch the babies. If your doe is distressed, distract her with a piece of fruit or a favorite treat while you check on the babies.
I usually handle the babies over my lap or over a soft surface. Baby bunnies are extremely wiggly and bouncy - I sometimes call them "popcorn babies"! One minute they'll be sleeping in your hand, the next minute you try to keep from dropping them! They should be handled gently and carefully.
On your first inspection, check for these 5 things (and each subsequent day, check for the 1st, 3rd, and 4th rule).
- Check to see if each baby is alive. Remove any dead babies.
- Check for any placentas and leave them for the doe to eat. They will give her calcium and nutrients to produce a sufficient amount of milk.
- Count the number of kits. Sometimes a baby will wander out of the nest looking for mom. Until they have eyes open, they should not be allowed to wander away from the warm and safe nest.
- Check for rounded tummies on the kits. This means mom is feeding them and everything is fine. Above is a picture of 4 nicely-fed kits.
- Check that the doe has pulled enough fur, especially if the nights are cold. Hormones in the doe's body make plucking fur from her tummy, thighs and chest very easy. Just pull some from her yourself if she hasn't pulled enough.
Don't let baby bunnies wander outside the nest before they open their eyes. In colder weather, don't let them leave the nest until they are around 3 weeks old and have enough fur to keep them warm.
Clean the nest box out at 9 days, to give a nice clean place for the babies to open their eyes. Take out all the soiled fur and hay, and replace it with new, clean hay. Keep all the fur that is dry and clean.
BREED TWO (OR MORE) DOES AT A TIME!
Breeding more then one doe at a time is very beneficial for multiple reasons. I recommend breeding a first-timer the same time you breed a veteran doe.
- If one doe dies while giving birth, you will have another doe to give the babies to (called "fostering", see below).
- If one doe doesn't lactate properly, you will have another lactating doe available to nurse the babies.
- If one doe has 7 babies and the other only has 2, you can foster babies from the doe with more babies to the doe with less. Some does won't be able to feed a large number (Holland Lops only have 6 teats), so some will get left out and possibly die. Litters with 3-5 babies are best because in litters with less babies, the babies may have trouble keeping each other warm.
FOSTERING
I had to foster a baby for the first time recently. He spent the night inside, with his foster mommy's fur (the only other fur I had on hand), and went in to his foster mommy's box with his foster siblings the following morning. It was that easy.
Rabbits only feed their babies at night (usually). I put the new babies in with the nest in the morning, after their feeding from their real mom. Their foster mom wouldn't really mess with them until next feeding time, and by that time they would all smell the same since they all cuddle up together.
Some breeders go as far as putting perfume, vanilla, or Vicks on a doe's nose so everything smells the same to her. Most does are very easygoing and wouldn't mind the extra babies at all.
I wouldn't try to foster babies that are over 2 weeks old. At that point, the doe is used to her babies and their smell and how many of them she has. Instead, you could have a nursing doe lay on her back and nurse the orphaned babies, putting them in a cage by themselves to live.
OPENING EYES
The baby bunnies will begin to open their eyes at 10-12 days old. Don't worry if some babies' eyes are open, and others' are not. If a baby's eyes aren't open by 12 days, I will help it along by opening its eyes with a warm washcloth. If a baby has crustiness around the eye, or its eyes keep sealing back shut, wipe them with a warm washcloth twice a day and clean the nest that it's in, so that gunk keeps away from the eyes.
2 week old Holland Lop kit. He has opened his eyes, but still sleeps all the time so they mostly stay closed!
HOPPING OUT OF THE NEST BOX
The babies will generally start hopping out of the box when they open their eyes, around 2 weeks old. Put them back in the box if they leave the nest before 2 weeks. Some babies will try to escape earlier, and if the mom is taking good care of them, some won't leave until they are 3 weeks old!
Baby bunnies are surprisingly mobile. I have had a 9 day old baby find its way out of the nest and out of the cage, into the poop pan below. Luckily it was still alive when I found it, but it was getting very cold and and was really hungry because it probably missed mealtime.
Usually at 2 and a half weeks I flip the box on its side because by now, the babies can get out but they can't find their way back into the box. With the box on its side, they can climb back in and sleep in a warmer place than on the wire.
This is the CUTEST stage of baby bunny, in my opinion! I absolutely adore watching them hop around on wobbly legs, like little human toddlers. They are so chubby and adorable! It's hard to not want to play with them all day.
The babies will generally start hopping out of the box when they open their eyes, around 2 weeks old. Put them back in the box if they leave the nest before 2 weeks. Some babies will try to escape earlier, and if the mom is taking good care of them, some won't leave until they are 3 weeks old!
Baby bunnies are surprisingly mobile. I have had a 9 day old baby find its way out of the nest and out of the cage, into the poop pan below. Luckily it was still alive when I found it, but it was getting very cold and and was really hungry because it probably missed mealtime.
Usually at 2 and a half weeks I flip the box on its side because by now, the babies can get out but they can't find their way back into the box. With the box on its side, they can climb back in and sleep in a warmer place than on the wire.
This is the CUTEST stage of baby bunny, in my opinion! I absolutely adore watching them hop around on wobbly legs, like little human toddlers. They are so chubby and adorable! It's hard to not want to play with them all day.
WHAT SHOULD BABY BUNNIES EAT?
Until a baby bunny is 2-3 weeks old, they shouldn't eat anything except mama's milk. Once the babies are 2 weeks old, they may start nibbling on the hay in their nest box. When they start hopping out of the box, they will taste mom's feed and her water. They won't start actually eating it until around 4 weeks old. Remember to always provide the babies and mom with hay. The babies will eat mainly hay as tiny youngsters, before they start on the food.
I like to give my babies old-fashioned, dry rolled oats when they are pros at eating pellets (otherwise they can choke), generally when they are 5-6 weeks old, a couple times a week. This helps with poopy butts that babies usually get as they are learning to eat their cecotrophs.
Until a baby bunny is 2-3 weeks old, they shouldn't eat anything except mama's milk. Once the babies are 2 weeks old, they may start nibbling on the hay in their nest box. When they start hopping out of the box, they will taste mom's feed and her water. They won't start actually eating it until around 4 weeks old. Remember to always provide the babies and mom with hay. The babies will eat mainly hay as tiny youngsters, before they start on the food.
I like to give my babies old-fashioned, dry rolled oats when they are pros at eating pellets (otherwise they can choke), generally when they are 5-6 weeks old, a couple times a week. This helps with poopy butts that babies usually get as they are learning to eat their cecotrophs.
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REMOVING THE NEST BOX
In cold weather, I leave the nest box in, but turned on its side so babies can easily get in and out, until they are 4 weeks old. In warm/hot weather, I take out the box at 3 week old. CARE OF THE NURSING DOE As soon as the doe has her babies, I let her eat like a queen. She gets as much food as she wants. Don't worry about her getting fat; her providing and producing milk for the babies will keep her at the proper weight since she loses so many calories doing it. At 4 weeks old, when babies start eating mom's food, you will need to provide enough food for all the babies as well as mom. Babies and mom get as much food as they want until the babies are weaned. Depending on the size of the litter, this could be up to 5 or 6 cups of feed per day, as well as unlimited hay, and a 32oz water bottle being refilled daily. Make sure you always have water available for your doe, as not enough water can cause her milk to dry up. Make sure your doe is taking care of herself as well as her babies. If she seems overwhelmed or abandons cleaning herself and becomes unkempt, foster some of her babies to another doe. See more about that above. BABY BUNNY BOOT CAMP If you are going to sell the babies as pets, you will need to train them and handle them often so they are comfortable with anybody touching anywhere on their bodies. I do this with all babies, those that will be staying, those that are pets, or show or breeding babies. No matter the use of the rabbit, it's always best to have a wonderful personality and temperament. That's a large part of what a rabbit is going to be able to be taught. At only a couple hours old, I begin to handle the babies. This way, by the time they have opened eyes, they know they like to be handled, especially by me. I'm like a second mother to all of my babies. They like being with me almost as much as they like nursing! |
By two weeks old, handling them everyday is so easy! They are adorable and so hungry for love! :) At this age, I begin to hold them upside down like the photo below, so they get used to the sensation. Since they sleep this way all the time in their nest, it's not very unusual for them at this age. You should do this with them daily so they know it's a normal, safe position for them to be in. I also touch every part of their little bodies such as their face, paws, ears, belly, nose and mouth. I don't do anything that is painful for them or too uncomfortable.
At three weeks I start posing with them. If you are only selling pets, you will not need to do this.
At four weeks I start touching their genitals and checking their teeth. If I haven't checked their gender yet, I start doing so now.
And then from 5-8 weeks, I give them frequent health checks and do everything normally.
At three weeks I start posing with them. If you are only selling pets, you will not need to do this.
At four weeks I start touching their genitals and checking their teeth. If I haven't checked their gender yet, I start doing so now.
And then from 5-8 weeks, I give them frequent health checks and do everything normally.
TELLING THE SEX OF THE BABIES
At 3-6 weeks old, you will begin to check the sex of the baby bunnies. As a newbie, you probably won't be able to tell with surety until 8 weeks or even older. Adult rabbits are easy to tell the sex on. Babies, with their genitals so tiny and most of our eyes are not perfect, are much more difficult to tell.
One of the most important things as a breeder is to be POSITIVE of the gender of the rabbit you are selling. I would say that the majority of pet owners that buy their rabbit from the pet store get a rabbit of a sex they didn't know they were buying. When getting two rabbits (both presumably the same sex), they end up with unplanned pregnancies and way more bunnies then they bargained for!
Because of this, we encourage people looking for a pet bunny to buy from a breeder. However, if we make the same mistake as the pet store, what's the point?
I encourage you to find a breeder nearby that will show you the sex of some young babies. And, if possible, take your babies to them for a separate and educated opinion once you have checked the gender.
Little bucks will not develop testicles until 3 and half months to 5 months old. To tell them from the does, they will have a small hole in the penis. The does will have a slit. Both will "pop out".
At 3-6 weeks old, you will begin to check the sex of the baby bunnies. As a newbie, you probably won't be able to tell with surety until 8 weeks or even older. Adult rabbits are easy to tell the sex on. Babies, with their genitals so tiny and most of our eyes are not perfect, are much more difficult to tell.
One of the most important things as a breeder is to be POSITIVE of the gender of the rabbit you are selling. I would say that the majority of pet owners that buy their rabbit from the pet store get a rabbit of a sex they didn't know they were buying. When getting two rabbits (both presumably the same sex), they end up with unplanned pregnancies and way more bunnies then they bargained for!
Because of this, we encourage people looking for a pet bunny to buy from a breeder. However, if we make the same mistake as the pet store, what's the point?
I encourage you to find a breeder nearby that will show you the sex of some young babies. And, if possible, take your babies to them for a separate and educated opinion once you have checked the gender.
Little bucks will not develop testicles until 3 and half months to 5 months old. To tell them from the does, they will have a small hole in the penis. The does will have a slit. Both will "pop out".
A weaning age (8 weeks), Holland Lop doe
WEANING
At 8 weeks old, the babies will need to be weaned off mom's milk.
Don't wean any baby that is having trouble eating hay and mom's food or is underweight. Only babies in perfect health should be weaned.
I wean the little bucks at 7 and a half weeks old. Does that want to be bred will sometimes "breed" their baby boys. After the bucks are separated, the baby does stay with mom for a couple more days. This helps mom's milk to taper off slowly, so she doesn't get mastitis. Then the does go into their new cage.
ALWAYS provide the weaned babies with a never-ending supply of hay and a little bit of oats weekly, to prevent weaning enteritis (which I will discuss in a later article). Always make sure they have water.
Kits can stay with their proper gender until 4 months. Any baby over that age should be in its own cage and not sharing with anybunny ;).
AFTER THE FIRST LITTER...WHAT'S NEXT?
You probably want to go through the process all over again, don't you?! Maybe the answer is yes, maybe it's a resounding NO! If it's yes, when can the doe be bred again?
I like to give my does frequent breaks. If I have a show I want babies to be ready by, I will sometimes breed them again only 9-10 weeks after the birth of their previous litter (so the last litter of babies are 9-10 weeks old). If I have a doe I want to show, I won't breed her again until after the show season. Usually I let them have a break of 1-4 weeks after weaning their previous litter, before being bred again. If the doe had a huge number of babies, I will let her have a longer break. If she lost a lot of weight or condition while nursing, I will let her have a longer break and get her weight back.
I encourage you to breed your does often if this is something you actually want to do. Don't wait 6 months to a year before breeding your doe again. This is just as bad as breeding a year old doe.
Make sure you have enough room and enough cages for more litters.
The nest box will need to be thoroughly sanitized before you use it on another litter, especially with another doe.
At 8 weeks old, the babies will need to be weaned off mom's milk.
Don't wean any baby that is having trouble eating hay and mom's food or is underweight. Only babies in perfect health should be weaned.
I wean the little bucks at 7 and a half weeks old. Does that want to be bred will sometimes "breed" their baby boys. After the bucks are separated, the baby does stay with mom for a couple more days. This helps mom's milk to taper off slowly, so she doesn't get mastitis. Then the does go into their new cage.
ALWAYS provide the weaned babies with a never-ending supply of hay and a little bit of oats weekly, to prevent weaning enteritis (which I will discuss in a later article). Always make sure they have water.
Kits can stay with their proper gender until 4 months. Any baby over that age should be in its own cage and not sharing with anybunny ;).
AFTER THE FIRST LITTER...WHAT'S NEXT?
You probably want to go through the process all over again, don't you?! Maybe the answer is yes, maybe it's a resounding NO! If it's yes, when can the doe be bred again?
I like to give my does frequent breaks. If I have a show I want babies to be ready by, I will sometimes breed them again only 9-10 weeks after the birth of their previous litter (so the last litter of babies are 9-10 weeks old). If I have a doe I want to show, I won't breed her again until after the show season. Usually I let them have a break of 1-4 weeks after weaning their previous litter, before being bred again. If the doe had a huge number of babies, I will let her have a longer break. If she lost a lot of weight or condition while nursing, I will let her have a longer break and get her weight back.
I encourage you to breed your does often if this is something you actually want to do. Don't wait 6 months to a year before breeding your doe again. This is just as bad as breeding a year old doe.
Make sure you have enough room and enough cages for more litters.
The nest box will need to be thoroughly sanitized before you use it on another litter, especially with another doe.
Breeding Issues
WEANING UNDER 8 WEEKS
There are many reasons why people HAVE to wean their babies under 7 weeks. If you can avoid it, I highly suggest that you do so.
To me, these are the only reasons a bunny should be weaned under 7 weeks. For the purpose of selling them when they are smaller and "cuter", well, that's just selfish.
If you have to wean a baby under 7 weeks old, there are some extra steps you can take to ensure the baby will wean properly and not get sick or have digestive issues.
MISSING BODY PARTS
Every once and a while, sadly, a doe will eat part of her baby. This can be for several different reasons.
Baby bunnies can live perfectly fine, normal lives with only one ear, fewer toes/nails, or no tail. However, I would be wary to let a baby live a life with fewer limbs. Since rabbits are so needy of all four of their legs, it would be almost cruel to subject them to a life of only three legs. When they binky, there could be a huge chance that they would injure one of their remaining limbs, because they wouldn't know how to land correctly without the missing leg. Of course, some babies will live perfect lives even with a missing leg. It's always up to you what to do if that ever happens.
Whenever there is an open wound or a missing body part, MAKE SURE you take care of the wound, by wiping away any fur sticking to it and washing the wound with a Q-tip or cotton ball daily. Apply neosporin to the wound or another form of triple antibiotic ointment, to encourage proper healing. I have had babies die due to infection, from an open wound that went untreated.
There are many reasons why people HAVE to wean their babies under 7 weeks. If you can avoid it, I highly suggest that you do so.
- The mom is no longer nursing the babies and nipping or biting them to make them stay away from her.
- A baby is being bullied or picked on.
- The cage is getting too small - with litters with over 5 kits, the space runs out quickly!
- The babies are getting too messy (pooping and peeing on each other). This is usually because the cage is too small.
- The mom is getting frisky with her babies in attempt to breed again.
To me, these are the only reasons a bunny should be weaned under 7 weeks. For the purpose of selling them when they are smaller and "cuter", well, that's just selfish.
If you have to wean a baby under 7 weeks old, there are some extra steps you can take to ensure the baby will wean properly and not get sick or have digestive issues.
- Provide the baby with hay, hay, hay! Lots of hay. Never ending supply of hay.
- If you have probiotics like AcidPak 4Way, put that in their water.
- Make sure they have enough food, and finally,
- Give them lots of love!!!!!
MISSING BODY PARTS
Every once and a while, sadly, a doe will eat part of her baby. This can be for several different reasons.
- She is under extreme stress and cannibalizes her babies
- She accidentally nibbles part of the baby off while trying to clean it
- She thinks the baby is dead (such as, if the baby is nearly frozen), and she normally eats her dead babies, thus nibbling part off
Baby bunnies can live perfectly fine, normal lives with only one ear, fewer toes/nails, or no tail. However, I would be wary to let a baby live a life with fewer limbs. Since rabbits are so needy of all four of their legs, it would be almost cruel to subject them to a life of only three legs. When they binky, there could be a huge chance that they would injure one of their remaining limbs, because they wouldn't know how to land correctly without the missing leg. Of course, some babies will live perfect lives even with a missing leg. It's always up to you what to do if that ever happens.
Whenever there is an open wound or a missing body part, MAKE SURE you take care of the wound, by wiping away any fur sticking to it and washing the wound with a Q-tip or cotton ball daily. Apply neosporin to the wound or another form of triple antibiotic ointment, to encourage proper healing. I have had babies die due to infection, from an open wound that went untreated.
This baby lost his ear (mom nibbled it off), immediately after birth. He was fostered to a different doe. Days later, the ear is healing well and the baby is doing great!
A DOE IN LABOR FOR OVER 4 HOURS
When a doe is in labor for over 4 hours, generally, she has a stuck baby. If the baby is stuck for a prolonged period of time and does not come out right away, it is already dead, due to being suffocated in the birth canal.
I have dealt with quite a few stuck kits sadly.
Here is what I do whenever I have stuck babies. Click HERE, to go to the blog about Saige's story, who had a stuck kit for a week. It's important to get that baby out as quickly as possible, as the baby will rot inside the doe and could make her seriously sick.
COLD BABIES
If babies are born outside the nestbox on the wire, especially in the winter, they have a very high chance of getting too cold. Some babies, born outside the box, will even appear dead but still have very shallow breathing and move a tiny bit every few seconds. If a baby is cold to the touch, bring him inside and warm him up.
There are a few different methods to warming up babies.
Recently I had a baby that was freezing and visibly, he looked dead. But I saw the slightest movement and brought him inside. My mom and I worked to warm him up.
We wrapped the baby in a towel and put him on a hot water bottle. The hot water bottle worked very well for about half an hour. At that point it wasn't heated anymore. Since it was so late and we needed to get some sleep that night, we couldn't keep changing the bottle. We refilled the hot water bottle, put a towel over it, and put it in a box. I filled the box with hay and litter and a tiny bit of mom's fur and attached a heat lamp near the box.
We left the baby in overnight. The next morning, he was perfectly warm and ready to go back out with the warm siblings that were born in the nest.
When a doe is in labor for over 4 hours, generally, she has a stuck baby. If the baby is stuck for a prolonged period of time and does not come out right away, it is already dead, due to being suffocated in the birth canal.
I have dealt with quite a few stuck kits sadly.
Here is what I do whenever I have stuck babies. Click HERE, to go to the blog about Saige's story, who had a stuck kit for a week. It's important to get that baby out as quickly as possible, as the baby will rot inside the doe and could make her seriously sick.
COLD BABIES
If babies are born outside the nestbox on the wire, especially in the winter, they have a very high chance of getting too cold. Some babies, born outside the box, will even appear dead but still have very shallow breathing and move a tiny bit every few seconds. If a baby is cold to the touch, bring him inside and warm him up.
There are a few different methods to warming up babies.
- Hold the baby in warm water up to his head (do not fully dunk the baby or he will drown!)
- Use a hairdryer, on the lowest setting, and lightly blow the baby
- Wrap the baby in a warm towel straight from the dryer
- Put the baby in a towel on a hot water bottle
- Put the baby under a heat lamp in hay and bedding
- Combine any of the above
Recently I had a baby that was freezing and visibly, he looked dead. But I saw the slightest movement and brought him inside. My mom and I worked to warm him up.
We wrapped the baby in a towel and put him on a hot water bottle. The hot water bottle worked very well for about half an hour. At that point it wasn't heated anymore. Since it was so late and we needed to get some sleep that night, we couldn't keep changing the bottle. We refilled the hot water bottle, put a towel over it, and put it in a box. I filled the box with hay and litter and a tiny bit of mom's fur and attached a heat lamp near the box.
We left the baby in overnight. The next morning, he was perfectly warm and ready to go back out with the warm siblings that were born in the nest.
The baby is nestled in the hay and warming slowly.
