This article, titled BUNNY CARE, has all the basics and generality of the basics. To read more about the necessities in detail, please look through the article page: http://hollyshollands.weebly.com/articles.html
To see the full article, click HERE
"Below is what I personally do for my bunnies and what I recommend for rabbits that are born at my rabbitry. This sheet was written to make your life with a Holland Lop as fun, stress-free, and easy as possible! There are several things listed below to help you have a successful transition of your baby bunny from our rabbitry to your home. If you have any other additional questions or concerns, please don't hesitate to contact me.
Thank you for taking the time to read and enjoy your new bunny!
FEED: I feed my rabbits 1/2 a cup (3 oz) of plain, green pellets a day for individual rabbits. Your rabbit has been eating the Alber's brand of rabbit feed. I get it in bulk at the Co-Op here in Everett. They order it in for me. Any plain, green pellet from any feed store will be just as perfect. Pet store rabbit food is generally mixed with treats or other feed. If shopping at a pet store is your only option, make sure your rabbit eats it all. Some rabbits are picky eaters and won't eat the "healthy" bits.
I have given you a baggie of my pellets that you will mix half-and-half with your feed when the bunny comes home. This makes the transition much easier for them. Changing a rabbit's feed too rapidly may be fatal.
WATER: Rabbits need clean, fresh water available at all times. If the rabbit gets too thirsty, it may also stop eating and starve as well at get dehydrated.
Your rabbit is used to drinking out of a ball-nozzle water bottle. If you prefer to provide a water crock, make sure the rabbit gets the idea of how to use it. Water crocks also tend to get dirty with hay, pellets, and droppings, so you may be changing the water in the crock much more often then the water in a bottle.
HAY: Rabbits need hay in their diet for proper digestion. They can't have good gut health without it. Hay also helps wear down rabbits' constantly-growing teeth and prevents boredom if it's always available. Hay should be fed daily, but every other day or a several days a week is fine too. I feed my rabbits a handful of hay every morning.
Rabbits should not be fed Alfalfa hay. Most pellets are Alfalfa-based, and too much Alfalfa in the diet can cause kidney problems and even death.
I feed my bunnies Timothy hay, that I purchase at the Co-Op. I prefer Orchard Grass, it is cleaner and the bunnies like the taste more but Timothy is better for the teeth.
TREATS: Most store-bought treats are completely fine for rabbits, if fed in moderation. However, natural fruits and veggies are much better for them. Rabbits love fresh foods, and they are healthy for them.
Rolled oats (plain and dry) are also very good for rabbits. I feed mine a tablespoon of oats twice a week or so. DO NOT EVER feed any rabbit under 6 months old ANY fruits or veggies. The only thing babies (under 6 months old) can eat is hay pellets, and a tablespoon of oats on their feed twice a week. NEVER feed your rabbit lettuce, no matter their age. It can give them serious diarrhea and stomach aches!
Good For Bunnies:
Apples and Apple branches, Artichoke, Asparagus, Banana (no skin), Basil, Beet greens, Blackberry leaves, Black oil sunflower seeds, Cardboard (pieces or toilet paper tubes), Carrots and Carrot tops, Cauliflower, Celery, Cheerios (not many), Clover, Coriander (Cilantro), Dandelion greens and flowers, Eggplant, Grass, Kale, Mint, Mustard greens, Oats, Parsley, Peaches, Peppermint leaves, Peppers (sweet), Pineapple, Pine Cones, Plums, Pumpkin and leaves, Radishes and leaves, Shredded Wheat (plain), Spinach, Strawberries and leaves, Summer squash, Zucchini
Ones in bold are the only ones babies can have.
Bad For Bunnies:
Alfalfa hay, Apple seeds, Baby carrots, Banana peel, Broccoli, Cabbage, Candy, Carpet, Cherries and leaves, Citrus peels, Corn, Dried fruit, Lettuce, Nuts, Pear seeds.
Do not feed any lettuce, EVER! Iceburg should be absolutely avoided at all costs. It can cause diarrhea in both adults and babies, and it can be very fatal and give painful stomach aches. Baby carrots should also be avoided because they are high in water content and are processed differently than big carrots. Fruits with high sugar content should be avoided or fed in small amounts, such as banana. Rabbits go crazy for bananas but it is high in sugar and should be regarded as a treat, rather than a daily fruit or veggie.
TOYS: Rabbits do get bored just like any other pet or child. If they get bored, they could develop bad habits such as chewing on their cage, which can cause teeth problems, and throwing their food around the cage and getting it dirty. While there are so many different kinds of toys at pet stores, and they are all good for your rabbit, rabbits go through toys very quickly and buying them at a pet store every time could run your pet store bill quite high!
We give all of our rabbits toilet paper tubes to play with.
Rolled-up pieces of newspaper
Pieces of cardboard
Toilet paper tubes
Pine Cones (make sure that there are no bugs or bird droppings on the pine cones).
Wood blocks (untreated) (rabbits cannot have cedar or pine).
NAIL TRIMMING/GROOMING: Your rabbit’s nails will need to be clipped once a month or so or whenever they become as long as the hair on their feet. Long nails will cause your rabbit pain, make him sit in an unnatural position, and may get caught in wires and snap off sometimes breaking the toe. If they get too long they can curl under and back into the toe, which is very painful for the rabbit. It also very hard to clip the nails once they have started to curl. .I use a rabbit nail clipper I bought at a pet store, but you can use cat nail trimmers or small dog nail trimmers. You should clip just a little bit at a time and stop when you think you've gotten close enough to the quick. The quick is the blood supply in the nail. If you clip this it will hurt your rabbit and he will bleed. Don’t let this discourage you from trimming your bunny’s nails, usually the quick is fairly down the nail and you need only clip off a little bit each month. I can clip your rabbit's nails for $5 once a month if you would like to bring it by.
BY APPOINTMENT ONLY AND ONLY IF YOU BOUGHT THE RABBIT FROM ME.
Holland Lops don't need to be groomed often when they are not shedding, or molting. When they are, they should be brushed or combed every couple days.
Bunnies do not need baths. They are very good at cleaning themselves and lick themselves just like cats do. NEVER immerse a bunny fully into the water. You can cause them to go into shock and possibly die. You can soak it's bum or feet if needed, but only occasionally and as sparingly as possible.
Every day check on your baby bunny's bottom. They are still learning to clean themselves and sometimes forget to or make a mistake while they are cleaning. Don't be surprised if you see a chunk or ball of poop on the bunny's butt; this is normal and is quickly outgrown. Your baby is very sensitive in this area so avoid pulling the fur or brushing it violently. Use a damp wash cloth, napkin or paper towel to wipe the area clean. You can also soak the bunny's bottom in a dish of warm water but this is really messy.
If you bought your rabbit from me, I would be happy to clip your rabbit’s nails once a month for $5 if you want to bring it by.
EXERCISE: Rabbits do need exercise but they don’t have to be out of their cage all the time. House rabbits do have an advantage over hutched rabbits, which is having the exercise always available to them. But hutched rabbits are perfectly fine with exercise only twice a week if their cage is big enough for them stretch out, stand tall, and move around. My house rabbit gets exercise twice a day for about an hour in the morning and an hour at night. My brood rabbits get exercise three times a week in warm and sunny weather, sometimes more, by running in my yard (bucks and does take turns of course!). They love to hop, run, do little binkies, and eat the grass! If it is warm and sunny and you let your rabbit play outside, make sure there is some shade in case it gets too hot. Most rabbits don’t like to be in direct sunlight.
HEALTH: Rabbits are generally very healthy animals and may never need to be taken to the vet. They do not need regular check-ups like dogs or cats; neither do they need yearly vaccines. I recommend bringing them to the vet ONLY in emergencies because the vet is very stressful for them. If you have any concerns about your rabbit, you can always ask me and I will tell you if it is a serious problem or not. Rabbits are considered an “exotic animal” and are not treated at most vets. Make sure you know that your vet takes rabbits and has experience with them, as many vets do not."
Another one of my favorite articles on my website (excerpt below), the litter training page!
"Can a rabbit really be litter trained?
Yes! Rabbits are very cleanly animals and are very smart. It's actually very easy to litter train a rabbit, because they only urinate/defecate in one place anyway, whether or not you provide them with a litter box. Not many people think of a bunny running around the house and litter trained like a cat when they hear "pet rabbit". Are you considering getting a bunny, but do you want it to be a part of the family? A pet that you can get to know personally, and that you can enjoy? Read on!" Click HERE to read the full article.
Have a nice night!